Tuesday, February 9, 2010

orange chocolate macarons


Ever since I was lucky enough to taste a variety of Laduree macarons from Paris I've had an obsession. Whenever I'm at a shop that has macarons and they look edible, I buy one. But attempting to actually make them after a sad-sad attempt a few years back has not been at the top of my to do list. With the new year I felt it was time to tackle my fear. I went over to Cannelle et Vanille because I felt that with all her experience and great recipes that it would be harder to fail. I decided to do a spin of her Lavender and Orange Macarons. All the measurements were in grams which is great except for me when it comes to smaller amounts. I decided I wanted a cute scale instead of a more practical digital scale a few years back and when it comes time to do the small amounts it is more of a challenge. I'm posting her recipe with my changes. I filled each macaron with ganache instead of the orange buttercream as she suggests. The flavor was amazing, my product not perfect. I think I whipped the egg whites until they were a bit too stiff. It just means I get to practice more!

LAVENDER AND ORANGE MACARONS
via Cannelle et Vanille
Makes about 4 dozen small macarons

181 grams almond flour
243 grams powdered sugar
138g egg whites
3 grams egg white powder (1 1/4 teaspoon)
2 grams of finely ground sea salt (1/4 teaspoon fleur de sel)
81 grams granulated sugar
Zest of one orange

In a large bowl, sift together the almond flour, powdered sugar and salt. Set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, add the egg white and the egg white powder. Whip in medium speed until egg whites start to increase in volume. I know a lot of recipes say to whip the egg whites at high speed but I find that it is better to start slower to build a better structure for the meringue.

When the egg whites are almost fully whipped and very fluffy, slowly start adding the sugar, sprinkle it in. After all the sugar is incorporated, continue to whip the meringue in high speed now until semi stiff peaks have formed. This is when we will add the orange zest.

Add the meringue to the almond flour and powdered sugar mixture and with a spatula, fold the meringue into the dry ingredients. This is called “macaroner” and is also a tricky part. It is better to fold slowly and test a couple of macaroons because it is possible to over fold this mixture. We are looking for a shiny mass. For this amount of ingredients, I would say that it will only take about 10 to 15 strokes. But again, it is better to check for consistency. We are looking for a mass that spreads a little but not too much otherwise our macaroons will be flat.

Pipe the mass onto half sheet pans lined with silpats (i used parchment paper)

Let them sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes so they dry. We want the tops to not stick to our finger when we touch them. This will ensure a crack-free macaroon.

Have your oven preheated at 325 degrees. Bake one sheet pan at a time positioning it in a middle rack. Bake for about 8 minutes and rotate sheet pan to ensure even baking. It should take about 14 minutes but that depends on the oven. We want to be able to pick up the macaroon without it falling apart but we don’t want to over bake it either. It is better to bake it slowly so no browning occurs.

Remove them from the oven and slide the silpat onto a cold surface. Let them cool on the silpat.

I then filled them with ganache when they were cool.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

chocolate-nut tart bon appetit


I made a sort of resolution with myself that I needed a routine of sorts which would have me making a new recipe on a regular basis. The idea that excited me the most was to make one dessert from each issue of Bon Appetit starting with the January 2010issue. In that issue there was a great section called "All American Comforts" unfortunately none of the recipes were speaking to me. Yet the first image in the section "Fast Easy Fresh" was this great picture of the Chocolate-Nut Tart with Dried Fruit. It was fast and easy, especially because I had a frozen pie crust just waiting to be used in the freezer. I didn't want to run to the store for any extra ingredients so I made a few small changes and omitted on ingredient. The tart is fantastic, chewy dried fruit, crunch from the mixed nuts and an intense chocolate flavor.

Ingredients
1 refrigerated pie crust (half of 15-ounce package)
1/4 cup raspberry preserves (I used apricot)
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate chips
1 cup assorted nuts (I used cashews and pecans), toasted, coarsely chopped
1 cup assorted dried fruit (I used golden raisins and cranberries)
Large pinch of coarse kosher salt
1/3 cup toffee bits, such as Skor (I omitted this)

Preparation
Preheat oven to 450°F. Press pie crust onto bottom and up sides of 10-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom; trim edges, if needed. Pierce crust all over with fork. Bake until deep golden brown, about 12 minutes. Cool. Spread preserves over bottom of crust.
Bring cream to simmer in heavy medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low; add chocolate chips and stir until melted and smooth. Remove from heat. Stir in nuts, fruit, and coarse salt. Spread chocolate mixture in crust. Sprinkle toffee bits over tart. Chill until set, about 2 hours. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

coco-nana bread

I noticed the group over at Tuesdays with Dorie made coco-nana bread. I made this bread in October, took some pictures but never got around to posting them. One of the main reasons...I wasn't totally impressed by it. It is super chocolatey, it calls for 1 cup of cocoa powder. I would prefer to have the bananas absent and have a true chocolate bread. I would reserve the bananas for traditional banana bread. Though I'm about to contradict myself in a way because I'm a fan of chocolate chips in banana bread, hmm Maybe you just need to make it yourself and let me know. You can find the recipe over at Obsessed with Baking

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

pain au chocolat

I promise this will be the last post on croissants and I will move on. But I couldn't move on until I mentioned chocolate croissants or pain au chocolat, that is so fun to say! So what happens is you cut out some rectangles instead of triangles out of the croissant dough and place 1 ounce of a chocolate baton in the center of each rectangle. From there you just roll it up, starting with the long side, encasing each bit of chocolate in the center. You can buy fancy batons at such places as Whole Foods or you can make your own. Melt some chocolate, bittersweet or remients of whatever you may already have. I used a leftover bit of schaffenberger 70% and valrhona milk chocolate. I melted both chocolates together. Then on a piece of parchment paper I had on the counter took my spoon and drizzled baton sized lines of chocolate. Once they were hardened they were ready to use. If you go to the effort of making croissant dough, I definitely recommend making each one of these. Next time I hope to also make pain au jambon, ham and cheese, yum!

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

almond croissants


Last week I posted my adventure with croissants. When making them you have more than family and yourself can eat in a reasonable amount of time, so what to do with left over croissants...almond croissants! These are actually my favorite kind and was waiting for the plain ones to get a bit stale so that I could fill them with frangipane and devour a crispy yet moist croissant aux amandes. It was worth the wait. To find just the right recipe i turned to the famous Parisian over at chocolate and zucchini she discusses her dislike of the super sweet almond croissant which I've encountered too many times. Her recipe is perfect, lovely almond flavor without overpowering it with sugar. I halved her recipe since I had only four croissants left. There was leftover syrup but just the right amount of creme.

Almond Croissants
adapted from chocolateandzucchini.com


1 tablespoons sugar
50g (1/4 C) sugar
50g (1/3 C) whole blanched almonds, or 50g (1/2 C) almond powder
a pinch of salt
50g (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, diced
1 eggs
powdered sugar
2 Tablespoons of sliced almonds

To make the syrup combine 1/2 cup water, 1 tablespoons sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a slow boil over medium heat, and simmer for a minute, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat, transfer into a shallow soup plate, and let cool completely.

To make the filling combine 1/4 cup sugar, the almonds and the salt in the bowl of a food processor, and mix until finely ground. Add the butter, and mix again until well blended. Add in the egg and process until creamy.

Preheat the oven to 350° F and line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Work with each croissant one by one and dip it into the syrup, coating both sides and the ends well, the croissant should be quite moist. Slice horizontally like you would for a sandwich, and place on the cookie sheet. Spread the inside with about two tablespoons almond filling, and place the top back on. Spread the top with another tablespoon almond filling, and sprinkle with sliced almonds. Repeat with the remaining croissants and filling.

Put into the oven to bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the almond cream is set and golden. Transfer onto a cooling rack, dust with confectioner's sugar, and serve, slightly warm or at room temperature.

Monday, January 4, 2010

new year's croissants



I had wanted desperately to make croissants last new year's but as my belly grew and my energy waned i found myself in the frozen food aisle at Trader Joe's buying frozen, although very yummy, chocolate croissants. This year I attempted again, wondering how I would do the multi day project with a 7-month-old and with my husbands help I did it! I had first made croissants in class with a lot of guidance and support. They turned out but not quite as good as I had hoped. This time I decided to use the recipe from the Tartine cookbook. I loved the results. The preferment I believe was key in creating the complex flavor. Thank goodness they are a challenge to make because I would eat too many otherwise. Until next New Year's here is the recipe.

Croissants
adapted from Tartine
via kitchenmusings
Preferment:

¾ cup non-fat milk (6 oz/150 ml)

1 tbsp active dry yeast (15ml)

1 1/3 cup all-purpose flour (6 ¼ oz/175g)



Dough:

1 tbsp + 1 tsp active dry yeast (20ml)

1 ¾ cup whole milk (14 oz/425 ml)

6 cups all purpose flour (28 oz/800g)

1/3 cup sugar (2 ½ oz/70g)

1 tbsp + 1 tsp salt (20 ml)

1 tbsp unsalted butter (15ml)


Roll-in butter:

2 ¾ cup unsalted butter (22 oz/625g)


Egg wash:

4 large egg yolks 2 oz/60 ml

¼ cup heavy cream

pinch salt



To Make the Preferment:

In a small saucepan, warm the milk to take the chill off (between 80° to 90 °F). Pour the milk into a mixing bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the milk, stir to dissolve the yeast with a wooden spoon, and then add the flour, mixing with a wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Cover the bowl with cheesecloth and let the mixture rise until almost double in volume, 2 to 3 hours at moderate temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.

To Make the Dough:

First measure out all your ingredients and keep them near at hand. Transfer the preferment and then the yeast to the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on low speed until the yeast is incorporated into the preferment batter, which will take a minute or two. Stop the mixer as needed and use a spatula to clean the bottom and sides of the bowl, folding the loosened portion into the mixture to incorporate all the elements fully. When the mixture has come together into an even, well-mixed mass, increase the speed to medium, and mix for a couple of minutes. Slowly add half of the milk and continue to mix until the milk is fully incorporated.

Reduce the speed to low, add the flour, sugar, salt, melted butter, and the rest of the milk, and mix until the mass comes together in a loose dough, about 3 minutes. Turn off the mixer and let the dough rest for 15 to 20 minutes. This resting period helps to shorten the final mixing phase, which comes next.

Engage the mixer again on low speed and mix until the dough is smooth and elastic, a maximum of 4 minutes. If the dough is very firm, add a little milk, 1 tablespoon at a time. Take care not to overmix the dough, which will result in a tough croissant that also turns stale more quickly. Remember, too, you will be rolling out the dough several times, which will further develop the gluten structure, so though you want a smooth dough, the less mixing you do to achieve that goal, the better. Cover the bowl with cheesecloth and let the dough rise in a cool place until the volume increases by half, about 1-½ hours.

Lightly flour a work surface. Transfer the dough to the floured surface and press into a rectangle 2 inches thick. Wrap the rectangle in plastic wrap, or slip it into a plastic bag and seal closed. Place the dough in the refrigerator to chill for 4 to 6 hours.

To Make the Roll-in butter:

About 1 hour before you are ready to start laminating the dough, put the butter that you will be rolling into the dough in the bowl of the mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until malleable but not warm or soft, about 3 minutes. Remove the butter from the bowl, wrap in plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator to chill but not resolidify.

Laminating the dough:

Lightly dust a cool work surface, and then remove the chilled dough and the butter from the refrigerator. Unwrap the dough and place it on the floured surface. Roll out the dough into a rectangle 28 by 12 inches. With the long side of the rectangle facing you, and starting from the left side, spread and spot the butter over two-thirds of the length of the rectangle. Fold the uncovered third over the butter and then fold the left-hand third over the center, as if folding a business letter. The resulting rectangle is known as a plaque. With your fingers, push down along the seams on the top and the bottom to seal in the plaque.

Second turn:

Give the plaque a quarter turn so the seams are to your right and left, rather than at the top and bottom. Again, roll out the dough into a rectangle 28 by 12 inches, and fold again in the same manner. Wrap in plastic wrap or slip into a plastic bag and place in the refrigerator for 1 ½ to 2 hours to relax the gluten in the dough before you make the third fold, or “turn”.

Third turn:

Clean the work surface, dust again with flour, and remove the dough from the refrigerator. Unwrap, place on the floured surface, and again roll out into a rectangle 28 by 12 inches. Fold into thirds in the same manner. You should have a plaque of dough measuring about 9 by 12 inches, about the size of a quarter sheet pan, and 1 ½ to 2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic wrap or slip into the plastic bag, place on a quarter sheet pan, and immediately place in the freezer to chill for at least 1 hour. If you intend to make the croissants the next morning, leave the dough in the freezer until the evening and then transfer it to the refrigerator before retiring. The next morning, the dough will be ready to roll out and form into croissants, proof, and bake. Or, you can leave the dough in the freezer for up to 1 week; just remember to transfer it to the refrigerator to thaw overnight before using.

Making the croissant:

When you are ready to roll out the dough, dust the work surface again. Roll out the dough into a rectangle 32 by 12 inches and 3/8 inches thick. Using a pizza wheel or chef’s knife, cut the dough into long triangles that measure 10 to 12 inches on each side and about 4 inches along the base.

Line a half sheet pan (about 13 by 18 inches) with parchment paper. To shape each croissant, position a triangle with the base facing you. Positioning your palms on the two outer points of the base, carefully rolling the base toward the point. To finish, grab the point with one hand, stretching it slightly, and continue to roll, tucking the point underneath the rolled dough so that the croissant will stand tall when you place it on the sheet pan. If you have properly shaped the croissant, it will have 6 or 7 ridges.

As you form the croissants, place them, well-spaced, on the prepared half-sheet pan. When all the croissants are on the pan, set the pan in a draft-free area with relatively high humidity, and let the pastries rise for 2 to 3 hours. The ideal temperature is 75 °F. A bit cooler or warmer is all right, as long as the temperature is not warm enough to melt the layers of butter in the dough, which would yield greasy pastries. Cooler is preferable and will increase the rising time and with it the flavor development. For example, the home oven (turned off) with a pan of steaming water placed in the bottom is a good place for proofing leavened baked items. To make sure that no skin forms on the pastries during this final rising, refresh the pan of water halfway through the rising.


During this final rising, the croissants should at least double in size and look noticeably puffy. If when you press a croissant lightly with a fingertip, the indentation fills in slowly, the croissants are almost ready to bake. At this point, the croissants should still be slightly “firm” and holding their shape and neither spongy nor starting to slouch. If you have put the croissants into the oven to proof, remove them now and set the oven to 425 °F to preheat for 20 to 30 minutes

About 10 minutes before you are ready to bake the croissants, make the egg wash. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, cream, and salt until you have a pale yellow mixture. Using a pastry brush, lightly and carefully brush the yolk mixture on the pastries, being careful not to allow the egg wash to drip onto the pan. Let the wash dry slightly, about 10 minutes, before baking.

Place the croissants into the oven, immediately turn down the oven temperature to 400 °F, and leave the door shut for the first 10 minutes. Then working quickly, open the oven door, rotate the pan 180 degrees, and close the door. This rotation will help the pastries to bake evenly. Bake for 6 to 10 minutes longer, rotating the pan again during this time if the croissants do not appear to be baking evenly. The croissants should be done in 15 to 20 minutes total. They are ready when they are a deep golden brown on the top and bottom, crisp on the outside and light when they are picked up, indicating that the interior is cooked through.

Remove the croissants from the oven and place them on a wire rack to cool. As they cool, their moist interiors will set up. They are best if eaten while they are still slightly warm. If they have just cooled to room temperature, they are fine as well, or you can rewarm them in a 375°F oven for 6 to 8 minutes to recrisp them before serving. You can also store leftover croissants in an airtight container at room temperature for 1 day, and then afterward in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. If you have stored them, recrisp them in the oven before serving.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

traditional pecan pie


Here is the post for the other pecan pie, finally. This is definitely more traditional, no chocolate. It is super simple to whip together if you have a pie crust handy. My husband preferred this one over the other. I can't say which was my favorite. This one has an intense sugar component. It made me think of a I heard someone once say, "I haven't had diabetes before"...it's that sugary but some how still very good.

Pecan Pie
pie crust
2 eggs
2 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon flour
1 1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup softened butter
1 1/2 cups chopped pecans, leave enough whole to cover top

Fit pie crust in a 9 inch pie dish.

Mix eggs through butter together well. Pour over chopped pecans in pie dish. Place whole pecans on top.

Place on top of a cookie sheet because it may bubble over. Bake at 325 for 35 - 40 minutes. It will still be soft in the center.